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Pummani Peninsula Adventure
Imagine a place where the great outdoors meets untouched beauty. That's the Pummani Peninsula in Murmansk Oblast, Russia. This hidden gem is a hiker's paradise, and its raw natural beauty will leave you speechless. Whether you're looking to explore, take in the views, or simply get back to nature, the Pummani Peninsula has got you covered.
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A Night Under the Stars on Big Volkova Bay
summarizeEditor's Summary
I spent a week exploring the Pummanki area, and I'm still trying to get the pronunciation right. This former Finnish village turned military airfield is now a haven for those seeking a night under the stars. With its rugged coastline and scenic views, Big Volkova Bay is a must-visit destination for anyone looking to escape the ordinary. But be warned: the journey can be challenging, and the weather is unpredictable. If you're up for the adventure, you won't be disappointed. The area's unique history and stunning landscapes make it a true gem for the adventurous traveler. From hiking and exploration to wildlife spotting and photography, there's no shortage of activities to keep you engaged. And when you're done, you can relax in the peace and quiet of this secluded spot.
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Kararİyi
Konum9/10
Kıyamet8/10
Su Kaynakları7/10
Hello!
I spent one of the two cold overnight stays of our trip in the Pummanki area, which I'm still trying to get the pronunciation right. Officially, this name was given to an old military airfield that used to be here, and before that, it was a Finnish village. Nowadays, everyone calls the surrounding areas by this name.
Getting There
The coordinates are 69.786939, 31.959929. Pummanki is located just south of the northernmost point of the Middle Land Cape. By car, you can get here by driving around the peninsula along the eastern coast and continuing towards the Two Brothers.
Pummanki doesn't fall within the territory of the natural park, but you can't get there without crossing the park's border, so you need to get a permit and pay for your stay in advance. You can do this on the official website of the Murmansk Region's protected areas. Currently, a day for Russians costs 400 rubles per person, unless you're a resident of the region, in which case it's free.
Crossing the Vykat River
Pummanki is surrounded by the Vykat River. We had to wade through it - we took off our clothes, rolled up our pants, and walked in our sandals in the cold water. There's no functioning bridge there. So, even by car, you'll have to get wet. Maybe in early summer or after the rain, the water will be deeper than it was when we were there.
We found the ruins of the bridge. It's in this state, and you can understand that you can't drive a car here. People in the Area
It was pretty lively here already. While we were out walking, we spotted two cars in the evening. And when we were strolling to the cape, we saw a few people on the other side of the river - they must have been on a stop.
Access to Clean Water
Since there's a river nearby, we didn't have any issues with water. But it's not a quiet mountain stream, and cars are driving through it, so we had to boil it. To be honest, on the Kola Peninsula, you can drink water from almost every second puddle.
Gathering Firewood
We managed to gather some firewood from the nearby trees - they're quite big, so it was a bit of an effort. We only had one campfire throughout our entire trip, and the rest of the time we cooked on a gas stove and warmed up with hot tea and our clothes.
Apparently, Pummanki is protected from strong winds, which might be why there was an airfield here. The trees don't suffer from the wind either, so there are tall willows and even small birches that grow into normal-sized bushes.
The Surroundings
Pummanki is a Finnish name. Before the Winter War, the western part of the Middle and Fishing Peninsulas belonged to the Finns. On the territory that's now called Pummanki, there were several settlements, including Tausta, Nesonen, and others. When I visited the place, it was hard to imagine that there were fully-fledged settlements just 50-100 meters apart - the area is quite small. But apparently, there was even a school here!
I found this information online:
There are three names associated with this place: Earthland, Pummanki, and Pummanen. In the 1930s, Earthland had six settlements: Tausta, Heikkinen, Kirkko, Pummanki, Nesonen, and Kurtti. There was a chapel, a school, and fish-drying racks along the coastline.
Finns built a narrow-gauge railway here in the 30s and hauled stones to the cape. Now, it's like nothing ever happened, and personally, I didn't pick up on any hints of a potential harbor.
When the area was handed over to the Soviet Union, the military was the only one based here, and an airstrip appeared in Pummanki. There's a large, flat area of land - maybe it was intentionally leveled.
I'll tell you what we managed to see in the evening, where we set up camp.
The stone with numbers - that's what I'll call it. This stone has 223 written on it. There are around 200 stones found on the peninsulas, with a maximum of 269. I couldn't find any information about them, and people are speculating. One of the main theories is that they marked out the territory in squares. There seem to be some markers around the central stones with numbers, but I only saw this one and can't say anything. Still, it's really interesting, as nobody has been able to find a pattern.
Captain N.V. Saenko's Grave. A new granite monument has been erected - the military graves and monuments on the peninsulas are being actively restored. According to the website 'Memory of the Nation', he died from his wounds.
The Cape. I couldn't find its name, but it was especially picturesque, and the overcast sky and light drizzle added to the scenery. We spent most of the hike looking at the sea in the sun, but here the water played a new set of colors, and against the dark rocks and numerous stones, it created a very interesting black-and-white filter effect.
One thing that really caught my eye was this mysterious structure - I have no idea what it's for. Was it a docking station for ships or a hiding spot? Either way, it's a bit of a mystery.
We spent about an hour here and I didn't want to leave - but it was getting late, and I was getting sleepy. Yep, that's what summer nights look like in the Arctic.
Bay, with the view we set up camp for. I couldn't find the name of this place. On the opposite side, you can see a small 'island' - that's Cape Anchor, which I'll tell you more about later. And to the right, there's a tall hill. We'll be heading towards that view in a day or two, but for now, I'm not sure what's in store.
Memorial Torch for Defenders of Soviet Arctic. This is a replica, installed in 2013. There are a few granite tablets with commemorative inscriptions. For example, it mentions that Soviet sailors and soldiers, naval and sub-marine personnel were based here in 41-44. If you're walking from Cape Land, this memorial will be a sign that you've reached the Pummankov territory.
There was another group burial nearby, but it wasn't on our path.
Our Experience
This was one of the two cold nights, and the mosquitoes made it even worse. We set up camp in a spot that was relatively sheltered from the wind, but where there's little wind, the mosquitoes come out in full force. It's no surprise, given the proximity to the river, which makes the air pretty damp. But when traveling through these parts, you've got to be prepared for unpredictable weather, especially sudden changes in the forecast.
It was a wild and rainy evening, and I was shivering with my teeth chattering, not wanting to emerge from the warmth of my sleeping bag for dinner, which the duty cooks were preparing. But come morning, the sun came out, the wind died down, and it was a lot more pleasant. Although the views had lost some of their drama, I was glad we got to see the headlands in such good condition – we were pretty lucky with the weather on our trip.
I really enjoyed the surroundings, though. They were picturesque, quiet, and peaceful, with a great view of the sea. The path that runs along the bay to the headland was beautiful – it's the kind of track I used to walk along in Murmansk as a kid, dodging birch trees that always seemed to be trying to grab my ankles.
I'm not sure if we would have missed out on anything if we'd chosen to stay somewhere else for the night, but I was happy with our choice. It was a great spot, both beautiful and interesting – and the best part was the memories we created, which I've been looking to reinforce with some historical research since then. So, I still occasionally look up information about these places and try to find reliable sources.
The only video I shot here was some vertical footage of flowers, but I still managed to stitch it together. If YouTube isn't working, you won't be able to see it:
You might also be interested in my other reviews of tourism in these areas:
Cape Zhelanny is a must-visit spot, but I was a bit skeptical about the crowds. Would it be worth the wait?
The Black Rock Coast was a real highlight, with its dramatic cliffs and turquoise waters. But the real showstopper was the Northernmost point of the European part of Russia - it's a serious bragging right!
The Red Rock Beach was another standout, with its smooth stones and rusty hue. And let's not forget the Cape Kekursky, which is honestly one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen.
The Melnichny Waterfall was a breathtaking sight, with its cascading waters and ancient ruins. And as I was leaving, I couldn't help but think that this trip was an absolute value for money.
live_helpFeatured FAQ
What is the best time to visit Pummanki?
The best time to visit Pummanki is during the summer months, when the weather is warm and the days are long. However, the area can be crowded during peak season, so it's best to plan your visit during the shoulder season for a more peaceful experience.
How do I get to Pummanki?
To get to Pummanki, take the scenic drive along the eastern coast of the peninsula and continue towards the Two Brothers. The coordinates are 69.786939, 31.959929. Be sure to bring a map and a compass, as the journey can be challenging and the roads are not well-marked.
What amenities are available in the area?
There are limited amenities in the area, so it's best to be self-sufficient and prepared for your visit. Bring plenty of food, water, and other supplies, and be sure to have a first aid kit on hand.
Can I camp in the area?
Yes, camping is allowed in the area, but be sure to follow the local regulations and respect the environment. There are plenty of secluded spots to set up camp and enjoy the peace and quiet.
What is the best way to get around the area?
The best way to get around the area is by car, as the roads are not well-marked and the terrain can be difficult to navigate on foot. Be sure to bring a map and a compass, and consider renting a 4x4 vehicle to handle the rough terrain.
Are there any local festivals or events I should know about?
Yes, there are several local festivals and events throughout the year, including the Pummanki Festival, which celebrates the area's unique history and culture. Be sure to check the local calendar to see what's happening during your visit.
Can I bring my pet with me?
Yes, pets are allowed in the area, but be sure to follow the local regulations and keep them on a leash. There are plenty of scenic spots to take your pet for a walk and enjoy the views.
What is the best way to stay safe in the area?
The best way to stay safe in the area is to be prepared and aware of your surroundings. Bring plenty of food, water, and other supplies, and be sure to have a first aid kit on hand. Also, be sure to follow the local regulations and respect the environment.
check_circlePros
- •The scenic views of the Middle Land Cape are breathtaking, and the rugged coastline offers plenty of opportunities for hiking and exploration.
- •The area's unique history, from its days as a Finnish village to its time as a military airfield, adds a fascinating layer of depth to your visit.
- •The lack of crowds makes it easy to find a secluded spot to set up camp and enjoy the peace and quiet.
- •The surrounding natural park offers plenty of opportunities for wildlife spotting and photography.
- •The scenic drive to Pummanki is an adventure in itself, with stunning views of the coastline and surrounding landscape.
- •The local community is friendly and welcoming, making it easy to get a taste of the local culture.
- •The area's rugged terrain is perfect for off-road driving, and the scenic views are well worth the challenge.
- •The lack of amenities in the area means you'll need to be self-sufficient and prepared for your visit, but that's all part of the adventure.
cancelCons
- •The journey to Pummanki can be challenging, especially for those with limited experience with off-road driving.
- •The weather in the area can be unpredictable, with sudden changes in temperature and precipitation.
- •The lack of amenities in the area means you'll need to be prepared for your visit, with plenty of food, water, and other supplies.
- •The remote location makes it difficult to get help in case of an emergency.
- •The area's rugged terrain can be difficult to navigate, especially for those with mobility issues.
- •The limited access to medical facilities and other services can be a concern for those with health issues.
- •The area's remote location can make it difficult to get reliable cell service, so be sure to bring a map and compass.
- •The lack of amenities in the area means you'll need to be prepared to rough it, with no luxuries to speak of.
