I'll admit, I was hesitant to visit Novorossiysk in the dead of winter.
The strong winds and cement dust everywhere didn't exactly scream 'picturesque destination.' But I'd heard so much about the beauty of the local waterfront that I decided to pack my bags, grab my winter coat, and head to Novorossiysk for the winter holidays. Spoiler alert: I didn't regret it.
We ended up staying in the village of Shirokaya Balka, just a 30-minute drive from the city center. The sea was literally a stone's throw away. If you want to read more about our experience, you can check out this post.
Day one. The sea, the monuments, and 18,000 steps.
On the fifth day of the new year, we decided to venture into the city. We took a taxi and headed out. The ride cost around 600 rubles (comfortable). We arrived straight at the Sudzhukskaya Spit, where we started our little walking adventure – along the sea, along the promenade, to the cruiser Mikhail Kutuzov.
1. Sudzhukskaya Spit
The pebble beach, the incredible views, and the feeling of complete freedom. The weather was surprisingly warm for January, around +10 degrees Celsius. The wind was moderate, invigorating, but not too strong. There were only a few people around, but plenty of seagulls and ducks.
I was blown away by the natural beauty of the place. The smell of the sea and the freshness of the air was incredible. In the distance, you could see the city from the beach. The beach infrastructure was closed, but there was a little shop with souvenirs open. We didn't need them, but we thought that we'd probably find something else on the way. Spoiler alert: the souvenirs only appeared at the Mikhail Kutuzov cruiser.
During the winter, Sudjuksky Spit is a place of meditation. After a walk, you get an incredible sense of calm. You look at the sea and the sky, and it seems like you've never seen such blue and turquoise hues before.
2. The Geshi Kozodoev Monument - Mom! Lelik! Help!
It's located in a small pond, separate from the sea. I was thinking that this might be where they filmed the famous scene from 'The Diamond Arm', but according to different sources, it's not. It's just a tourist monument to attract attention.
3. The Marine Cathedral
I have to say, I was really intrigued by the facade of this unfinished cathedral. It's hard to believe it's still under construction, but they claim to finish it by the end of 2026. From what I can see, it's already looking quite impressive and photogenic.
4. Monumental Complex 'Little Land'
After strolling along the Sudzhuksky Beach, we made our way to the famous 'Little Land' monument. Dedicated to the heroic landing of Major C.L. Kunitskov's marine detachment in February 1943, the monument features a Gallery of Battle Glory inside. We didn't venture in, but took a closer look from the outside. The facade of the monument could use some TLC – it's got a bit of a neglected feel to it, which is a shame.
Next, we made our way to Admiral Serdobryakov's Embankment. I'm not sure exactly where it starts, but the area is gradually getting a makeover. We spent some time admiring the sailboats in their winter slumber, the seagulls, and the picturesque views of the city in the distance. The right-hand side is looking great, but the left-hand side has its moments.
5. The Black Sea Hamsa
We stumbled upon this really cool monument. The Black Sea hamsa was the main source of food during World War II. The grateful people of Novorossiysk erected a monument to the fish. I'd love to restore it to its former glory.
We stopped by a small kiosk to grab a coffee from a super friendly vendor. The magical moment – I'm sitting on a plastic stool, which the vendor kindly offered, sipping on a delicious hot chocolate, and taking in the view.
6. The Church of Peter and Fevronia
I arrived at the next attraction, a church situated right on the water's edge. The birds, the open space, and the light made the place feel like a fairytale. I thought Assol with her red sails would look perfect here.
The promenade is beautiful on both sides, and people are taking photos to remember the moment in front of the 'Seahorse' sculpture.
7. The 'Exodus' Monument
The man is pulling the horse, but it's resisting. It's a bit unsettling to look at this monument. The idea is that a White Army officer is leaving his homeland, and his horse doesn't want to go. It's a powerful work, but it leaves you with mixed feelings.
8.Мыс любви
I've made it to Cape Love – I'm right in the middle of the waterfront promenade. There's a memorial here for the crew of the fishing boat 'Urup' from the 'Chernomoretz' collective farm, which was lost during a hurricane.
When I got here, I was wondering what love had to do with it. The place is beautiful, but it doesn't look romantic at all. It turns out it's all about the stories behind this spot.
Apparently, this used to be a slave trade market. According to legend, two lovers who ended up here decided it was better to die than be separated and sold to different masters, so they jumped into the sea. And in 1910, a lovesick schoolboy shot his girlfriend and himself here.
9. Parke Frunze
This park is super cozy and well-maintained.
We took a spin on the Ferris wheel. An adult ticket costs 400 rubles. It's 57 meters high.
The cabins are sturdy, with protective barriers, and the top is open. After the Ferris wheel in Rostov-on-Don where the cabins were swaying in the wind (I'll never forget that), here it was smooth sailing.
We spent a lot of time in the park. There's a pond with goldfish and a fountain, a kids' play area, swings, an outdoor amphitheater for performances, and a café. It's a nice spot to take a leisurely stroll.
10. Old Man Hinkali
It was already well past noon, and we were craving some food. There were plenty of cafes and restaurants near the Frunze Park, but they were all packed. We managed to find a spot at a Georgian restaurant called Old Man Hinkali. The panoramic windows offered a great view of the embankment, and the atmosphere was lively and delicious.
I tried the chicken khinkali, which were a steal at 200 rubles each. The chocolate khinkali were a game-changer - I'm still dreaming about them. And the cappuccino was pretty good too. All in all, it came out to around 800 rubles. The only downside was the noise. But the taste and value for money made up for it.
11. The Heart of the City
Finally, we made it to the square in front of the Mikhail Kutuzov cruiser. That's where the train station is too. It's a really special place - the views of the ships in the port are stunning. The square itself has plenty of cafes, souvenir shops, and activities for kids. We took in the views and headed back home, deciding to visit the cruiser the next day.
Day Wrap-Up
I clocked in around 18,000 steps, while my sister managed 24,000 (her pedometer might be a bit off). We walked from 11 to 16:00. One thing's for sure - you'll need warm clothing, and waterproof shoes are a must.
Despite my friends' skeptical predictions, the first day showed me that the winter promenade in Novorossiysk is a whole different ball game.
The wind is invigorating, the sea is mesmerizing, and the promenade invites you to take a thoughtful stroll.
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Day two. History, cruiser, and a few more steps.
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12. Ulitsa Sovetskaya
This time we decided to start the day a bit differently. We headed to the intersection of Ulitsa Sovetskaya and Ulitsa Engel's. Here, you can take in the historic architecture of the city and head straight down to the square near the cruiser.
13. Museum-cruiser Mikhail Kutuzov
The majestic cruiser is a real, military, Soviet ship that was launched back in 1952. It saw action in battles. On the photos, it's gray, but in person, it's black and enormous.
Tours run every 30 minutes.
Cost – 600 rubles. Duration – 45 minutes. Tour guide – young, with a strong voice and a well-rehearsed monologue.
I'm still hearing the bell from the top deck in my head. If you're there and you hear it, it's probably just another tour going by. From the deck, you get a pretty cool view of the city.
What stuck with me from inside the ship was the darkness and crampedness, especially the sailor's quarters. It felt like only kids could fit in those tiny spaces, not adults. The tour didn't leave a lasting impression.
If you're not into military history, you might be fine just checking out the ship from the outside. But if you want to get a feel for life on the high seas, it's worth a visit. Just make sure to bundle up - the wind on the deck will cut right through you.\xa0
14. Wife of a Sailor
Next to the Kuznetsov cruiser is a beautiful sculpture of a woman on the shore with a child in her arms, waving goodbye to her husband. It's a lovely and touching composition that brings back the relaxed atmosphere of the waterfront after visiting the ship.
We continued our walk along the waterfront after passing by Kutuzov. We strolled along, taking in the views of the sea until we came across the marine port building. That's when we stopped to reflect and watch as they loaded enormous cargo containers.
There's this beautiful little alleyway nearby that I can only imagine how lovely it must be in the spring.
15 The Water Fountain
I couldn't help but wonder if it was giving the departing ships a kiss goodbye? Nope, it gives water. Before 1970, Nовороссийск didn't have its own fresh water supply. When the city got its own water system, this fountain was erected as a tribute. Unfortunately, it doesn't work during the winter months.
16 The Girl on the Dolphin
This is one of the most popular spots for photos. Locals say that if you rub the dolphin's back, your wishes will come true.
17 Soyuz 28
I was starving, so we decided to grab a bite to eat and stumbled upon this amazing place. The view was stunning, the food was delicious, and the service was super friendly. I wrote a more detailed review here.
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18. Suvorov Street
We took a leisurely stroll along the waterfront and ended up on a wide boulevard with a pedestrian zone – Suvorov Street. Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos. There were plenty of shops selling handmade goods, like knitted items, wooden crafts, and jewelry. We walked along at a relaxed pace and ended up on Lenin Avenue – perfect for a promenade. I even spotted a beautiful Christmas tree.
After that, we headed back.
Day Summary
Around 14.00 steps. Leisurely walk. Feeling of pleasant fatigue.
Travel Summary
The winter waterfront in Nовороссийск exceeded my expectations. This place is perfect for those who love the sea, open spaces, wind, and long walks. It's a city that makes you want to walk and feel the atmosphere.
If you're unsure whether to visit or not – don't hesitate.